First Impressions: The Indochine Lounge

Other cruises herd you into a noisy waiting hall. Indochine Premium ushers you into their own private lounge – air‑conditioned, softly lit, smelling of lemongrass and polished wood. A cold towel and a honeyed welcome drink appear before you’ve even sat down. Your luggage is tagged, your name checked, and a concierge asks if you prefer a high or low cabin. No queues. No shouting. This is the first sign that you are not a tourist; you are a guest.

The Cabin: Private Balcony, Art Deco Soul

I booked a Premier Balcony Cabin (35 sqm). The moment I slid the door open, I stopped. Lacquer panels, hand‑painted murals of opera scenes, a Marshall speaker playing soft jazz. The bed – king‑sized, piled with pillows – faced a floor‑to‑ceiling window overlooking the bay. But the real star: the private balcony. Two chairs, a small table, and a view of limestone karsts rising from emerald water. I sat there for twenty minutes before unpacking. Just listening to the lapping waves. The bathroom is marble, with a soaking tub and a separate rain shower. Toiletries are local, artisanal, and smell of ginger and pomelo. Turndown service brought a handwritten note and a cup of sleep‑inducing tea. It felt like being tucked in by a beloved aunt.

The Premier Balcony Cabin – your private floating sanctuary.

The Itinerary: 2 Days vs 3 Days – What’s the Difference?

I chose the 3‑day / 2‑night journey. Here’s the honest breakdown. Both itineraries include Luon Cave (kayaking), Surprise Cave (Sung Sot), Titov Island, cooking class, squid fishing, and tai chi. The 3‑day adds a full day exploring Lan Ha Bay – Halong’s quieter, less crowded twin. You transfer to a traditional wooden boat, visit floating fishing villages, swim in water that feels like a warm bath, and have lunch with locals. That extra day also gives you a second cooking class (watermelon phoenix carving – I failed spectacularly) and a gala dinner where the crew sings a Vietnamese farewell song. If you have the time, take the 3‑day. You’ll leave feeling not just rested, but moved.

The Food: Buffet, Banquet, and Breakfast of Champions

Let’s talk about the meals. Lunch on day one is a buffet of spring rolls, caramelised pork, fresh herbs, and a noodle soup that rivals any Hanoi street stall. Dinner is a five‑course plated affair: seared scallops, beef in red wine, crème brûlée. The wine list is respectable (a decent New Zealand sauvignon blanc for $35). But the true revelation is breakfast. Fresh phở with rare beef, made‑to‑order omelettes, crusty baguettes, tropical fruit, and strong Vietnamese coffee. On the 3‑day itinerary, you also get a brunch on the final morning – a final feast of grilled seafood, pastries, and free‑flow juice. I ate too much. I regret nothing.

“The phở at sunrise, with mist curling around the karsts, is not a meal. It’s a meditation.” — a fellow traveler at the sundeck

The Activities: Kayaking, Caves, and Squid Fishing

Luon Cave is a low arch that opens into a hidden lagoon. You can kayak or take a sampan. I kayaked – the water is jade green, monkeys watch from the cliffs, and the silence is profound. Surprise Cave (Sung Sot) is a cathedral of stalactites, well‑lit and dramatic. Yes, there are crowds, but the scale is humbling. Titov Island offers a 427‑step climb; the summit view is the classic Halong Bay postcard. Do it. Squid fishing at night is more about laughter than catching – a bamboo rod, a glowing lure, and a dozen guests giggling in the dark. I caught nothing. I smiled the whole time. The cooking class (fruit carving) is led by the head chef – a man who can turn a tomato into a rose in thirty seconds. My attempts were tragic. He was kind.

Kayaking through Luon Cave – a surreal, silent experience.

The Service: Warm, Attentive, Almost Flawless

I’ve stayed in five‑star hotels where service felt robotic. Not here. The crew remembered my name by lunchtime. They asked about my dietary preferences (vegetarian, no fish) and adapted every meal without fuss. The cruise manager, Ms. Linh, checked in twice daily – not to sell, but to ensure I was happy. One small hiccup: the check‑in process at Tuan Chau Port (the lounge is lovely, but the port itself is chaotic). Another: the Wi‑Fi is intermittent – they warn you, but if you need to work, bring a local SIM. These are tiny nicks on a near‑flawless canvas.

The Value: What You Pay vs What You Get

Prices start from around $685 per night for the 2‑day cruise, including all meals, kayaking, cave entry, tai chi, cooking class, and the Diva’s Soiree (evening jazz with free‑flow Champagne). The 3‑day is roughly $1,050. Is it expensive? Yes. Is it worth it? For the private balcony, the art‑decor design, the crew’s genuine warmth, and the feeling of waking up inside a painting – absolutely. You can find cheaper cruises. You will not find this level of soul.