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Just a short drive apart, Kampot and Kep offer two complementary sides of coastal Cambodia. Kampot is a riverside gem known for its French colonial architecture, world-famous pepper, and the misty Bokor Mountain. Kep, a sleepy fishing town, tempts with its crab market, gentle beaches, and the lush trails of Kep National Park. Together, they form a perfect escape for travellers seeking authentic Khmer charm, fresh seafood, and unhurried days.
Kampot town rests on the banks of the Kampot River, with the Elephant Mountains rising to the north. Once a thriving port during the French colonial era, it retains a sleepy, artistic atmosphere. The riverfront is lined with restored shop houses, now home to boutique hotels, cafes, and craft breweries. The town’s slow pace makes it ideal for cycling, kayaking, or simply watching the sun paint the Bokor Mountain range in shades of gold and pink.
Kampot pepper is celebrated globally for its distinctive floral aroma and complex flavour. Recognized with a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), it comes in four varieties: black, white, red, and green. The pepper is grown in the foothills of Bokor, where the combination of rich soil and sea mist creates ideal conditions. Several plantations, such as La Plantation and Sothy’s Pepper Farm, offer guided tours where you can learn about organic farming methods, taste different grades, and buy fresh peppercorns directly from the source. Kampot pepper elevates any dish – from a simple steak to the famous local crab.


Bokor National Park encompasses the 1,080-meter Bokor Mountain, accessible via a winding road that climbs through jungle and cloud forest. At the summit, you’ll find the haunting Bokor Hill Station, an abandoned French resort from the 1920s, complete with a ruined casino and church. Nearby, a giant statue of Lok Yeay Mao (a protective goddess) overlooks the coast. On clear days, the view stretches across the Gulf of Thailand to the islands of Koh Rong and Koh Tunsay. The park is also home to gibbons, elephants, and hornbills. The drive up takes about 45 minutes from Kampot; the cooler air and misty atmosphere make it a favourite escape.
“Kampot is the kind of place where you plan to stay for two days and end up staying two weeks. The river, the pepper, the people – they all conspire to slow you down.” — travel journalist Christina Lamb
On the road from Kampot to Kep, you’ll pass vast salt evaporation ponds. During the dry season (December to May), seawater is channeled into shallow fields, where the sun evaporates the water, leaving behind crystalline salt. Local farmers rake the salt into mounds before harvesting. The sight of endless white fields framed by blue skies is unexpectedly beautiful. Some salt farms welcome visitors for a brief look at this ancient practice – a reminder of how Kampot’s economy extends beyond tourism and pepper.
Once a glamorous beach resort for the French elite and later for King Sihanouk, Kep was largely abandoned during the Khmer Rouge years. Today, it has re-emerged as a low-key coastal retreat. The centrepiece is the Kep Crab Market, where you can choose freshly caught crab from wooden boats and have it cooked on the spot with Kampot pepper. The dish is simply unforgettable: succulent crab stir-fried with green peppercorns, garlic, and herbs. The market is lively, and the seafood is as fresh as it gets.


Kep Beach is a small, clean crescent of sand, perfect for a lazy afternoon. For more active travellers, Kep National Park offers a 8-km loop trail through dense jungle, leading to several viewpoints overlooking the ocean and the abandoned villas of the French era (the so-called “ghost houses”). The trail is well-marked and can be completed in 2–3 hours. Along the way, you might spot macaques, monitor lizards, and colourful birds. The park entrance is just behind the crab market – a pleasant walk from most guesthouses.
Just a 20-minute boat ride from Kep lies Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay), a tiny, car-free island fringed by white sand beaches and palm trees. There are no luxury resorts – just simple bungalows and hammocks. The snorkelling is modest, but the real draw is the complete relaxation. You can swim, sunbathe, or eat freshly grilled seafood at one of the beachfront shacks. Ferries depart from Kep’s pier daily; the journey is calm and the island feels delightfully undeveloped. It’s an ideal half-day or overnight escape.
Kampot and Kep are not destinations for thrill-seekers. They are for those who appreciate a perfectly brewed coffee by the river, the crackle of peppercorns in a hot wok, and the sight of a distant mountain wrapped in mist. Together, they offer a gentle, authentic slice of Cambodia – where the pace of life is measured in tides and pepper harvests. Come with no agenda, and leave with a full stomach and a lighter heart.
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