Côn Đảo: From Hell on Earth to Island Paradise

For more than a century, Côn Đảo served as Vietnam’s most feared prison. Established by the French in 1862, the island complex held tens of thousands of revolutionaries in brutal conditions. The infamous “tiger cages” — narrow cells with iron bars — became symbols of colonial cruelty. During the American war, the prison continued to hold political prisoners. Yet today, this same landscape has been transformed. Côn Đảo is now a national park, a marine protected area, and a model for sustainable tourism. The archipelago spans 76 square kilometers, with 80% of its land designated as protected forest. It is a place where you can spend the morning learning about history and the afternoon snorkeling among vibrant coral reefs — a reconciliation of memory and renewal.

The Côn Đảo Prison Complex is a national special historical relic — a vast open‑air museum that preserves the structures where thousands of revolutionaries were held. Walking through the cells, seeing the shackles and the restored “tiger cages,” you feel the weight of suffering. Yet it is also a place of profound reverence. Hàng Dương Cemetery, where over 20,000 martyrs are buried, is a pilgrimage site for Vietnamese visitors. Here rests Võ Thị Sáu, a teenage heroine who became a symbol of resistance. Her grave is perpetually covered in flowers, a testament to the enduring spirit of those who sacrificed for independence. The museum now features over 440 wax figures recreating scenes of prison life — a powerful, immersive way to understand this chapter of Vietnam’s history.

Côn Đảo National Park covers over 19,000 hectares of land and sea, protecting one of Vietnam’s richest marine ecosystems. The waters surrounding islands like Bảy Cạnh, Hòn Tài, and Hòn Cau are home to more than 1,300 marine species and 340 species of vibrant coral. Snorkeling and diving here reveal underwater landscapes of staggering beauty — gardens of soft coral, schools of tropical fish, and, if you’re fortunate, the graceful glide of a sea turtle. On land, the park’s tropical forests shelter rare species, including the endemic Côn Đảo black squirrel. Trekking trails lead through ancient jungle to hidden beaches, where you may find yourself entirely alone.

From April to October, Côn Đảo becomes Vietnam’s most important sea turtle nesting ground. Green turtles (Chelonia mydas) and hawksbill turtles return to the beaches where they were born to lay their eggs. The most active site is Bảy Cạnh Island, where rangers guide visitors at night to witness this ancient ritual. Watching a mother turtle haul herself up the beach, dig a nest, and lay her eggs under the moonlight is a profoundly moving experience — a reminder of the delicate cycles of life. Later, visitors can participate in releasing baby turtles into the sea, watching as they instinctively crawl toward the water. These conservation programs are not only unforgettable but vital: only one in a thousand hatchlings will survive to adulthood.

Đầm Trầu Beach is perhaps Côn Đảo’s most photographed spot — a crescent of white sand where airplanes glide just meters above the water as they approach the airport. It’s a surreal sight, and a perfect place to spend an afternoon swimming, kayaking, or simply watching the spectacle. Bãi Nhất offers pink‑tinged sand and views of Love Peak, best visited at sunset. An Hải, near the town center, has calm, shallow waters ideal for families. And for those seeking solitude, hidden coves like Bãi Ông Dũng and Bãi Cầu Tau reward those willing to explore. Each beach has its character, but all share the same clear, turquoise water and the sense of having been preserved for generations.

Beyond the historical and natural attractions, Côn Đảo is a place of deep spirituality. Vạn Sơn Tự (Núi Một Pagoda), perched on a hill overlooking Bến Đầm Bay, is the island’s most famous temple — its architecture blending Vietnamese and Chinese styles, its setting offering panoramic ocean views. Miếu Bà Phi Yến honors the wife of Lord Nguyễn Ánh, a figure revered for her loyalty and sacrifice. These sites are active places of worship, where visitors light incense and reflect. For many Vietnamese, a trip to Côn Đảo is as much about pilgrimage as about vacation — a chance to honor ancestors and pray for peace.

Bún Riêu Hải Khiêm: A local legend — crab noodle soup made with sea crabs harvested from the island’s waters. The broth is rich, tangy, and unlike any version found on the mainland. Available only in Côn Đảo.
Cháo Hàu (Oyster Porridge): A comforting dish of rice porridge with fresh, plump oysters, seasoned with pepper and scallions — perfect for a cool evening.
Ốc Vú Nàng (Vu Nang Snail): A pyramid‑shaped sea snail found in Côn Đảo’s waters, prized for its sweet, tender meat. Often steamed with lemongrass or stir‑fried with garlic.
Dried Seafood & Almonds: The Côn Đảo Night Market offers grilled squid, scallops, and local specialties like roasted almonds (hạt bàng) and sam đất wine — perfect souvenirs to take home.

History & Heritage: A guided tour of the prison complex, museum, and Hàng Dương Cemetery, with time to reflect on the island’s poignant past.
Island Explorer: Snorkeling at Bảy Cạnh or Hòn Tài, trekking in the national park, and beach relaxation at Đầm Trầu.
Turtle Season Experience: From April to October, an overnight trip to Bảy Cạnh Island to witness sea turtles nesting and release hatchlings.
Multi‑Day Escape: For those seeking to disconnect, 3–4 days allow for a complete immersion — history, nature, and the quiet rhythm of island life.