Why Bourdain Loved Vietnam

Bourdain filmed eight episodes in Vietnam across three of his shows: A Cook’s Tour, No Reservations, and Parts Unknown. His journey through the country began early in his television career, taking viewers on an espionage-themed tour around the northern region in a No Reservations episode entitled “Vietnam: The Island of Mr. Sang.”

A few seasons later, he returned for a homecoming of sorts, as implied by the episode’s title “Vietnam: There’s No Place Like Home.” At the end of the episode, Bourdain was seen contemplating the life of an expat, so drawn was he to the country’s rhythm and charm.

What captivated him was not the grandeur of Vietnam’s landmarks but the intimacy of its street corners. He wasn’t looking for modernization; he wanted the deep, slow-simmered broths, the expertly grilled pork, and the watery, cold joy of bia hơi shared with locals. Vietnamese cuisine, he argued, needs no extra frills to make an impact. It is complete — a balanced, multisensory interplay of flavours, textures, and aromas.

Hanoi: The Capital of Flavour

In the season eight opener of Parts Unknown, Bourdain once again found himself in Vietnam, this time in the capital of Hanoi. The day started with streetside bún ốc and ended with the cheerful clinking of bia hơi. But the highlight of this episode was a guest appearance by US President Barack Obama.

In May 2016, President Obama made an official state visit to Vietnam. During his stop in Hanoi, he carved out time for a local meal and conversation with Bourdain. The location was a small, family-run restaurant called Bún Chả Hương Liên at 24 Lê Văn Hưu in the Hai Bà Trưng District.

Both men sat on low plastic stools, and Bourdain insisted on paying the bill himself — around $6 for two bowls of bún chả, spring rolls, and Hanoi beer. The images of Obama and Bourdain eating together in a modest Hanoi eatery were broadcast around the world, turning the restaurant into a must-visit spot overnight.

The Hanoi Stops

Bún Ốc – Snail Noodle Soup: Bourdain’s first meal in Hanoi on that trip was a bowl of bún ốc, a spicy tomato-based broth with fresh herbs, noodles, and snails. He visited a roadside food stall at 38 Lương Ngọc Quyến in the Old Quarter.

Bánh Cuốn – Steamed Rice Rolls: At Bánh Cuốn Nóng Kim Thoa (49 Hàm Tử Quan), Bourdain enjoyed bánh cuốn — crepe-like rice rolls filled with ground pork and mushrooms — alongside cold beer.

Bún Chả – The Iconic Dish: The most famous stop on Bourdain’s Hanoi food trail is Bún Chả Hương Liên at 24 Lê Văn Hưu. Today, the restaurant features the very table where Obama and Bourdain sat, preserved under glass. Most visitors order the “Combo Obama” — a deal that includes bún chả, a seafood nem rán (spring roll), and a bottle of Bia Hà Nội, for around 85,000–130,000 VND.

Bia Hơi – Fresh Draft Beer: Bourdain also visited Quán Bia Hơi Hải Xồm at 22 Tăng Bạt Hổ, a classic roadside joint where locals gather for freshly brewed draft beer with an alcohol content of about 3–4%.

Egg Coffee – A Hanoi Invention: While not explicitly featured in his Hanoi episode, Bourdain was known to appreciate Vietnam’s coffee culture. The iconic egg coffee — a rich, custard-like concoction of egg yolk, sugar, and coffee — was invented in Hanoi and remains a must-try for any visitor following the Bourdain trail.

Huế: Imperial Cuisine

Bourdain visited Huế in Parts Unknown, sampling dishes from the imperial capital’s renowned culinary tradition. He tried bún bò Huế in its birthplace — a spicy, lemongrass-infused beef noodle soup that he called one of the greatest soups in the world. He also sampled cơm hến (minced baby clams on sesame rice crackers), bánh bèo (steamed rice cakes), and bánh bột lọc (tapioca dumplings) in the streets of the ancient capital.

The imperial cuisine of Huế is the most refined in Vietnam, with an emphasis on presentation and complex flavour profiles. Bourdain appreciated its depth and the skill required to achieve such balance.

Hội An: Ancient Town Flavours

While Bourdain didn’t dedicate an entire episode to Hội An, he visited the ancient town and highlighted its culinary treasures. He praised Bánh Mì Phượng at 2B Phan Chau Trinh as one of the best bánh mì in Vietnam, and appreciated the town’s signature cao lầu — thick noodles with pork, fresh herbs, and crunchy croutons made from water drawn from a local well.

He also admired the delicate white rose dumplings, shrimp-filled dumplings shaped like white roses, which remain a Hội An specialty to this day.

Saigon: Street Food Capital

In Ho Chi Minh City, the must-visit Bourdain spot is The Lunch Lady at 23 Hoang Sa Street, District 1. Situated in an unassuming alleyway, this eatery rose to global fame after Bourdain featured it on No Reservations in 2009, calling its owner a “legend.”

Ms. Nguyễn Thị Thanh, the original Lunch Lady, opened her stall in 1995, serving a rotating lunch menu of noodle soups. The restaurant offers different dishes that rotate throughout the week, including bún bò Huế, Thai noodles, and crab noodle soup, with prices starting from 50,000 VND.

Bourdain praised her bún bò Huế as one of the finest soups he had ever tasted, highlighting the complexity of the broth and the perfect balance of spices.

Beyond The Lunch Lady: Bourdain also visited Quán Bánh Xèo 46A at 45 Đinh Công Tráng for crispy bánh xèo, and enjoyed the vibrant street food culture of Saigon’s night markets.

Beyond the Cities

Mekong Delta

On A Cook’s Tour, Bourdain visited Cần Thơ and the Cái Răng Floating Market, enjoying Vietnamese coffee and beef phở for breakfast. He also shared a meal with a Delta farmer, trying water apples, clay-baked duck, and duck and banana blossom soup.

Nha Trang

He sampled lobster “blood” followed by lobster with pepper-lime juice, along with fried grouper with spicy red chili sauce. He also visited the former emperor’s villa for traditional Bird’s Nest Soup.

Đà Lạt

Called “the Switzerland of Southeast Asia,” Bourdain visited Linh Phước Pagoda for a vegetarian meal with nuns. He also enjoyed duck congee and a salad with crispy rice cakes at local eateries.

Mai Châu and the Central Highlands

This is where Bourdain had the memorable “squeazel” (porcupine) and tried rượu đế moonshine. He also visited Lok Village for a meal of bamboo rice, grilled meat, and larb.

Hạ Long Bay

Bourdain visited twice. The first time, on “The Island of Mr. Sang,” he enjoyed a multi-course dinner on Tuần Châu Island prepared by Mr. Sang. On his final trip, he set sail on a private charter on Emeraude Classic Cruises, enjoying grilled squid and a meal of water spinach and locally caught fish with a fishing family.

Signature Dishes of Bourdain’s Vietnam

Restaurants Still Open

Most of the restaurants Bourdain visited remain open and welcoming visitors today:

• Bún Chả Hương Liên (24 Lê Văn Hưu, Hanoi) — Still serving the famous bún chả, with the Obama table preserved under glass.
• The Lunch Lady (23 Hoang Sa Street, District 1, Saigon) — Continuing the rotating noodle soup menu, now run by the family.
• Quán Bia Hơi Hải Xồm (22 Tăng Bạt Hổ, Hanoi) — Still pouring fresh bia hơi to locals and visitors alike.
• Bánh Mì Phượng (2B Phan Chau Trinh, Hội An) — Still serving legendary bánh mì.

How to Follow the Anthony Bourdain Trail Today

To retrace Bourdain’s culinary journey, allow 10 days for a comprehensive pilgrimage:

• Day 1–3: Hanoi — bún ốc at 38 Lương Ngọc Quyến, bánh cuốn at Kim Thoa, bún chả at Hương Liên, bia hơi at Hải Xồm, and egg coffee.
• Day 4–5: Huế — bún bò Huế, cơm hến, and imperial cuisine.
• Day 6–7: Hội An — bánh mì Phượng, cao lầu, and white rose dumplings.
• Day 8–9: Saigon — The Lunch Lady, bánh xèo 46A, and night market street food.
• Day 10: Mekong Delta — Cái Răng Floating Market and a Delta farmer’s meal.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Reflections

Bourdain’s love for Vietnam was not so much an obsession as it was an earnest admiration for the country and its people. His was a celebration of the perfect, unapologetic simplicity found on tiny plastic stools on the pavement.

His journey through Vietnam serves as a permanent reminder that the soul of a country is best understood from the street level. When you make it to Vietnam, pull up a tiny stool, ignore the traffic, and dive into the broth. All the senses are engaged here.